In my article earlier this week concerning the Svalbard Archipelago, I launched you to this exceptional area of the world and what it’s like as a photographer. At present, I’ll share a day-by-day journey diary from my journey this July, together with among the images I captured there.
July 4
My pal Alberto and I start our journey to Svalbard with switch flights. Sadly, our pal Marco can’t be with us on this journey.
It’s a busy day: Malpensa (Italy), Frankfurt (Germany), and Oslo (Norway), and at last, at 00:40 AM on July fifth, we arrive in Longyearbyen.
Stepping onto the runway, within the contemporary air and the midnight solar, is a strong emotion. On my wrist, the Garmin diligently signifies that the subsequent sundown will likely be on August twenty fifth, in 51 days!
July 5
At 2:00 AM, we’re on the Coal Miners, the lodge the place we’ll keep for just a few days earlier than boarding an icebreaker and heading North.
A number of hours of sleep, and a protracted stroll, and we’re already taking images on the fringe of the permitted space. There are a lot of birds right here: Widespread Eider, Barnacle Goose, Pink-footed Goose, Crimson-throated Loon, Widespread Sandpiper, and Arctic Tern, along with the ever-present gulls. On our earlier journey right here throughout the winter, we had additionally seen reindeer and foxes right here, however now they don’t appear to be round.
We {photograph} till lunchtime, then seize a chew to eat and go get some relaxation. This night, we’ve a tour with our information, Laya. We meet at 6:00 PM.
Laya is a girl from Barcelona, Spain, with a beautiful smile and improbable dreadlocks, who moved right here just a few years in the past to do the job she loves. We wander as a gaggle till midnight, searching for arctic foxes. We’re not very fortunate, although. Only a fleeting encounter with no images captured. Driving us again to the lodge, she exhibits us a colony of pink-footed geese with tiny chicks.
July 6
One other early wake-up name, however we’re not right here to sleep. Alberto and I take a protracted stroll—we don’t have a automobile—to the place Laya confirmed us the geese. My boots damage my ankles; to avoid wasting house within the baggage, I wore them throughout the flight and within the many airports with socks that had been too skinny, which precipitated bruising. At the least it left house in my bag for my digital camera gear.
Geese are usually not there anymore! We search with binoculars, getting additional and additional away from the place they had been only a few hours in the past. Ultimately, we discover them once more; they’ve moved close to the river.
We take our time, not eager to disturb them, and we method very, very slowly. It’s raining a bit, however what’s taking place in entrance of us is gorgeous: The geese are having their images taken whereas bathing their chicks. It’s thrilling!
We {photograph} till lunchtime, then have a sandwich and a nap. Within the afternoon, we discover extra geese across the Coal Miners lodge, then we head again to the tern colony we visited yesterday.
July 7
This morning, we give attention to a pool the place a pair of Crimson-throated Loons are about to nest. There are additionally some Sandpipers, Barnacle goose, and others…
Then we’ve lunch and chill out till boarding time. At present is the massive day: We’ll lastly see the Kvitungen!!! That’s our ship for the journey North. And it really seems like a working crab fishing vessel, with only a few comforts. Maybe as a result of it’s!
However the crew, six folks together with the captain, appears very competent. So does Vide, the Basic Supervisor of AWT, the operator who organized the journey. He’ll even be our information, together with Erlend.
We meet the opposite photographers: a French couple, a Texan husband and spouse, two English pals, an aged German physician, a Channel Islander, a Canadian, and a man from Miami. What a various group!
In the course of the pre-departure briefing, pleasure grows, but in addition a little bit of apprehension. Accurately, quite a lot of it’s devoted to security: we have to contemplate the place we’re and the place we’re going and be very cautious about how we transfer and what we do to keep away from harm. Vide explains that Longyearbyen has a extremely environment friendly emergency heart for sea rescue, however should you had a damaged foot or toe a whole lot of miles away, they’d most likely ask the ship to return and never ship a helicopter to select you up. This may have repercussions for the injured individual and the remainder of the vacationers. I need to say I anticipated all of this, however listening to it stated is completely different. So, bear in mind: hold targeted, take note of the slippery deck. One hand for you and one hand for the ship, at all times!
July 8
At present is a switch day, which can final all evening. We received’t attain the ocean ice till tomorrow morning. However we’re in Svalbard, and all the pieces is particular. We move glaciers that plunge into the ocean and sharp peaks proper on the coast. Specifically, we make a cease at Bjørn Fjord & Smeerenburg Glacier. Splendid.
The evening is unimaginable: we sail on a glassy sea.
July 9
A quiet evening, and within the morning we’re within the pack ice.
Shortly after breakfast: POLAR BEAR! A very imposing male. It’s a really peculiar scenario, extraordinary for me—it’s close to a sperm whale carcass—although Vide says he skilled one prefer it just a few years in the past, on the land.
The bear was sleeping soundly, however then it wakes up and tries to eat. It may possibly’t. The carcass may be very giant and difficult, and the bear actually can’t get a chew. He tries for some time, licking the pores and skin. Vide explains that this fashion the bears will step by step begin consuming. For now, the whale is generally intact. After some time, the bear goes again to sleep, wakes up, and tries once more. We spend 12 hours collectively. Unbelievable!
July 10
We spend the evening—odd to name it that, contemplating it by no means will get darkish—with the engine off, floating amidst the ice. We drift many miles. It’s really unusual to expertise this, staying nonetheless but transferring with the ice.
Within the morning, we set off once more to discover additional north. We encounter a curious, younger, and really lovely feminine bear approaching us. And one other outdated male bear, its face lined in blood and scars reminiscence of a thousand battles, sleeping. Far-off, we spot one other, however it’s going its personal approach within the distance.
That is the essence of the journey: we don’t observe the bears. We’re a passive presence; they resolve the place they wish to go. I’m really appreciating the qualities of the ship, the crew, and the guides: comfy among the many ice and ethically motivated each to elucidate what’s taking place and to respect the animals.
July 11
We proceed alongside the sting of the pack ice, looking for the whale carcass from a few days prior. We all know it’s the magnet for the polar bears. We battle to search out it; clearly, it’s nowhere close to the place it was two days in the past. Ultimately, we encounter it once more. There’s thick fog. It’s a really distinctive ambiance, not straightforward to seize photographically. So, I {photograph} the ship.
July 12
A really foggy morning, and we couldn’t see something for a really very long time. Very miserable. However then it clears a bit, and we handle to get our bearings. We see the whale once more, and in addition the bears. There are 4 of them; one is consuming, and three are sleeping! One other one arrives. After which one other feminine with a younger one. Then a big male. WOW!
It will likely be an unimaginable day; not solely will we {photograph} seven completely different polar bears, virtually constantly from midday to midnight, but in addition with an unparalleled array of behaviors and conditions.
Late within the night, the cloud cowl—a continuing till now—opens up, and the solar comes out. Two bears are playfully arguing…
By midnight, I can’t take it anymore; I’m chilly, bodily exhausted, and emotionally overwhelmed. I need to relaxation a bit, however others keep on deck persevering with to get pleasure from this really unimaginable scenario.
It is among the longest and most particular photographic days of my life!
July 13
Shortly after 4:00 AM, I’m again on deck once more, and the fog is thick. However there are additionally two bears transferring round us. Step by step, the fog clears a bit. We take images for an hour, then set sail to the south.
We may have stayed longer right here; that was a part of the unique plan, as our expedition was devoted to the ice pack. However we’re all conscious of how extraordinary what we’ve skilled is, and it’s time to search for various things. So, we set off. The plan is to spend a while close to to the islands to see if we will discover any walruses and discover a chicken colony, among the archipelago’s many pure wonders.
The next hours don’t have any story; everyone seems to be misplaced of their ideas or wanting on the photographs. Late within the night, we arrive on the Seven Islands. Walruses are there to greet us.
July 14
At present’s plan is to go to the Fowl Cliffs of Alkefjellet, which is actually a pure spectacle, and one I had already seen in 2022. To get nearer, we take a ship journey. The wind is fierce at present, and the birds are quite a few.
We’re additionally handled to an encounter with an Arctic Fox, patrolling the shore searching for prey.
Again on the ship, it’s time to set off once more westward.
July 15
At 2:00 a.m., we move Truthful Haven, an space of glaciers tumbling into the ocean and jagged peaks. I set my alarm for 1:30 AM to see it. It’s a surprising evening, virtually too gorgeous. Solely Erhard is exterior, silent as he’s been all through the complete voyage.
It’s really emotional. I feel again to the times passed by and the long run. What I would like from the subsequent years of my life. It’s arduous to share.
After about an hour, I used to be about to maneuver again to mattress, crammed with a uncommon peace and a way of success. The captain warns me that the climate will worsen rapidly. I take two seasickness capsules and fall asleep. I barely closed my eyes, or at the very least I feel I did, since I’m extraordinarily drained, once I wakened from the motion of all the pieces. We’re crusing with hurricane-force winds and really tough seas, whipped by foam. That’s what Vide will inform me later. On the time, I didn’t go away the cabin and waited within the fetal place for it to move.
Within the morning, we return to calm seas, heading for Kross Fjord and a colony of Puffins. We additionally see a pod of Beluga whales. After lunch, we transfer to Kongsfjorden (King’s Bay), the place we take a smaller boat journey amongst icebergs. Throughout this, we encountered an exquisite Bearded Seal and a few Svalbard Reindeer on the land. Within the distance, a household of bears—a mom and two cubs.
Again on the ship, because of our pal Susanna, we get pleasure from a Champagne flute on deck to have fun our journey earlier than the return journey begins.
July 16
We sailed again towards Longyearbyen in sunny, heat climate; it didn’t really feel like we had been within the Arctic. We docked within the late afternoon. After dinner, on the town, on the pub that proclaims itself the northernmost on the planet, we went for a drink to have fun this excellent journey and say goodbye. Apart from just a few of us. Alberto and I are planning to remain just a few extra days to pursue our Arctic fox dream, whereas our pal Matthew plans to kayak and camp within the deserted settlement of Piramiden!
July 17
We disembark early within the morning and head to Guestjuset, the place we’ll spend the final two nights.
Within the afternoon, we wander with Laya till dusk searching for the arctic fox, however we’re not fortunate.
July 18
A full day with Laya, and the aim remains to be the arctic fox. Nevertheless it’s too scorching, and we don’t see something. It doesn’t really feel that far north!
A number of extra images of the Arctic Terns, however now Alberto and I are desirous about residence and household. I miss Anna and Margherita a lot. It’s time to return residence.
July 19
Return flights, retracing the identical route we took on the way in which there. Given its success, this might have been my final journey to those components. However I’m already feeling nostalgic and desirous to return in the future!
Some Attention-grabbing Stats
- In our wanderings, we’ve gone past the 82nd parallel. Upon returning to port, we’ll uncover that, in keeping with Vessel Finder, we had turn into the third-northernmost ship on the planet!
- The icebreaker journey was 753 NM / 1395 KM lengthy
- We noticed 20 Polar bears, photographing 17 of them
- We had 3 quick cruises with the Zodiacs
The Photographic Gear
In a earlier article of mine, right here, I outlined the contents of the pictures backpack I used to be planning to deliver on this journey. How did all of it work out?
- The 2 Nikon Z9s proved dependable and versatile. They’re cameras that stay cutting-edge, regardless of the time that has handed since their announcement, and having two cameras has allowed me to work simply with completely different focal lengths, avoiding frequent lens modifications. Two cameras on this class aren’t important; you will get by with smaller and cheaper our bodies. However having the 2 of them is improbable.
- The lenses I selected (24-120mm f/4, 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6, and 600mm f/4) proved good. The wide-angle lens doesn’t should be pushed additional than 24mm in these circumstances, whereas a protracted focal size (at the very least 600mm) is crucial. In the course of the two weeks, I took round 24,000 pictures, an distinctive quantity for me, lowered to five,390 after the preliminary choice. Right here’s the breakdown by lens:
- 24-120mm f/4: 614 (with 156 at 24mm)
- 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6: 2,022 (with 974 at 400mm)
- 600mm f/4 TC VR S: 2,754 (with 1,359 at 600mm and 1,395 at 840mm)
As a lot as I like the standard of this gear, I need to emphasize that with two Z6 III our bodies and a 24-120mm + 180-600mm, an excessive amount of what I did may have been achieved. Contemplate that 4,795 of these 5,390 photographs had been taken at ISO 800 or decrease (3,654 at ISO 500), so slower lenses wouldn’t have impacted the outcomes more often than not. A very good DSLR equipment additionally would have been stop viable for the journey and maybe saved much more cash.
However it’s a indisputable fact that the most-used digital camera on the ship amongst all of us photographers was the Z9. If I’m not flawed, seven Z9 cameras had been on the ship. And so they carried out nice on this punishing setting.
Methods to Manage a Journey Like This
A visit like this presents many challenges, but in addition affords an unimaginable alternative for private and photographic progress in a singular setting. I’m not partnered with any tour firm and don’t have any affiliations or sponsorships with them. It’s simply from my very own expertise that I needed to thank Arctic Wildlife Excursions for organizing this journey. They’re skilled professionals with deep data of the realm. I’ve traveled with them on two of the three journeys I’ve taken there, and I like to recommend them with out hesitation. I additionally wish to advocate Laya from Snowfox Journey for her experience round Longyearbyen. For those who journey to Svalbard, you’ll enormously respect tour guides like these.
Conclusion
I hope this text conjures up the identical love I really feel for these locations and the animals that inhabit them. This journey to Svalbard and the pack ice was way more than a photographic journey; it was an immersion in an excessive and splendid ambiance, with the chance to see and {photograph} fantastic animals whereas they final. A very transformative expertise.
For any questions, feedback, or ideas, please don’t hesitate to go away a remark beneath.
Please word that I’m touring proper now and should not have entry to the web for a number of weeks. Although I’ll learn each remark as quickly as attainable, I won’t be able to reply to them as traditional. Thanks on your understanding, and please be happy to go away feedback and questions anyway!